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First Lady Jill Biden brought her sartorial A-game to Inauguration Day — and symbolically championed a young American label at the same time — by sporting a tone-on-tone ensemble designed by Alexandra O’Neill, founder of the barely four-year-old New York-based label Markarian. The custom-designed look included an ocean blue wool tweed coat embellished with Swarovski crystals that caught the light and a matching dress with a chiffon bodice and scalloped skirt. The icing on the matchy-matchy cake? A silk face mask (also by Markarian) in the same shade of blue and a pair of matching gloves (provenance unknown). According to a press release issued by the designer, the color blue was chosen “to signify trust, confidence, and stability.”

By going with an emerging American-made label, Biden sent an unmistakable message that she was taking a page from the Michelle Obama playbook and plans to use her role as first lady to elevate and amplify the work of up-and-coming designers. By opting for a tonal look — and one that played off the color of her husband’s necktie to boot — she visually telegraphed a departure from the colorful chaos of the previous administration. (For those of you in trend-spotting mode, the tonal thing turned out to be the big style story of the day.)

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